Behind JCPenney’s investment in petite apparel
Last week, JCPenney rolled out its latest petite collection — a partnership with actress-singer Ally Brooke — under its private label Bold Elements. It’s an example of how the department store is increasingly investing in petite, citing a growing demand for shorter sizes.
Petite apparel, or clothing specifically designed for women 5’4″ and under, has been offered at JCPenney for half a century. Today, petite is responsible for nearly 10% of all women’s apparel sales. But in the past five years, JCPenney has seen more demand for petite sizes as customers look for more tailored clothing and the opportunity to mix and match pieces, JCPenney CEO Michelle Wlazlo told Modern Retail.
“Our petites business has grown every single year over the time I’ve been here,” Wlazlo, who joined JCPenney in 2019 as chief merchandising officer and moved into her current position this year, said in an interview. “And keep in mind that growth is happening even though many women… don’t always wear head-to-toe petite. Sometimes, it’s a bottom and not a top or vice versa.”
Industry data points to this trend. According to Circana, sales of women’s petite apparel grew 4% in 2024. The market research firm also found “significant momentum” in purchases of wide-leg jeans, skirts and casual pants last year, all of which demand more precise sizing. Circana executive director and apparel industry adviser Kristen Classi-Zummo told Modern Retail that some of this may be due to the rise in online shopping, which has enabled retailers to offer more curated fit options.
Today’s growth in petite apparel “is a clear signal that the fashion industry is listening and adapting to more individualized consumer needs,” Classi-Zummo said. The average height for women varies around the world from 4’11” to 5’7″. In the U.S., it falls just short of 5’4″.
JCPenney’s focus on petite comes as it tries to get back to growth. The retailer, which announced a turnaround plan in 2023, is working to funnel $1 billion back into the business by fiscal 2025. In December, it reported a $2 million operating profit for its third fiscal quarter. Its quarterly net sales, meanwhile, dropped nearly 8% year over year to $1.41 billion. Most recently, it merged with Sparc Group to form a new fashion retail entity called Catalyst Brands.
JCPenney’s new collection with Brooke, a former member of the music group Fifth Harmony, retails for $30 to $149. It is available in regular, plus, and petite sizes, enabling mixing and matching. According to Wlazlo, the collection is “pushing the fashion envelope a bit more” by including items not traditionally included in JCPenney’s other petite offerings. These include a sequin blazer and matching shorts set.
At JCPenney, all of the most popular women’s brands, including private ones like Liz Claiborne and Worthington, come in petite. Petite pieces are designed with shorter body proportions in mind, particularly when it comes to sleeve lengths and inseams. “You can’t just size down,” Wlazlo said. “It needs to be fit for that body type.”
JCPenney remains focused on building out its petite offerings at the same time that it’s taking families’ budgets into consideration, Wlazlo emphasized. The department store mostly caters to average-income families, and it wants its assortment to be varied enough that customers won’t have to pay for expensive tailoring, Wlazlo said.
“To enjoy those fashion pieces and not have to worry about the alterations and the extra expense is really important for our customer,” she said. “So we’re really proud that we offer them fashion they can basically pick up and wear out that night.”
More retailers and brands are starting to offer petite sizing as part of a larger inclusivity movement in apparel. Los Angeles-based premium denim brand Mother Denim launched its first petite collection in October 2023, while Spanx developed a line of shapewear made to fit petite bodies in July 2023. However, expanding into petite — just like expanding into plus — can come with its own set of logistical and inventory challenges, Modern Retail has reported.
JCPenney will continue to work with Brooke on additional partnerships, Wlazlo said. As for what’s next for JCPenney under Catalyst, “people will keep seeing us take some bold steps in fashion,” Wlazlo added.